Suspension lift.

Suspension lift.

Postby blackphaeton123 » Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:16 pm

Hello i need a suspension lift on the front. I think ive got triumph suspension at the moment. I need a good 2-4 inchs of extra lift for classic car trials. Are coil overs a good way to go? And what ones do i need to get?

I really need some advice and help here guys. Thanks steven
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Re: Suspension lift.

Postby bricol » Sat May 08, 2010 1:27 pm

Interesting this - there is a Triumph suspended Dutton out there in classic trials world with an "interesting" interpretation of the rules . . . it has extra metal welded under the chassis and under the top mounts - the wishbones are then mounted to the new rails - so an interesting view of keeping the original mounting points . . . Doesn't do much if you think about it though - the new metal is still the same distance from the ground as the original chassis. You might gain some extra under the main chassis.

Yeller Dutton (ie me) uses Triumph front suspension - longer shocks are used with longer springs. Not stiffer, just longer to raise the car and still keep nice supple suspension. The travel is limited by the articulation limits of the top ball joint and the track rod end, and you want it to stop before smashing into them - don't want one to break on a road section!

I had to move the steering rack down and back to get rid of the bump steer and the crazy inverse ackermann geometry - now throughout the full bump to full droop there is no visible bump steer when I use a metre long straight edge clamped to the brake disc, and it doesn't cause itself to lose grip by now not turning the outer wheel tighter than the inner!

Big wheels help of course - you are allowed to use 14" wheels. I use Sierra steel wheels with full profile tyres (80 profile). Unfortunately Sierra's actually use FWD offsets, so you need spacers to get the wheel back out where it should be - which then knocks out the trunnions rather well.

If you are entered in the Ilkley Classic, or anywhere near it over the weekend of 16th May, come and take a look.

Don't forget the rear - long, soft, travel to maintain traction - if a front wheel is waving in the air, you might not steer as much as you want, but as soon as a rear wheel leaves the ground, you stop. Mine's hard enough to hold us, the car, tools, full boot, full tank up in the air, but soft enough to hit the bump stops on a big bump on a section - you can feel the car dig in as the weight forces the rear down into the ground and it simply grips and goes ;-)

Steel wheels on the back needed silly spacers - I had some made, to get the wheel out and away from the chassis, so no rubbing of tyres on the chassis. If it does - the panhard rod has bent - which is deliberate - it saves something else breaking.

Shocks were where what I found on ebay, and I dunno what they are off. Springs - to suit you car weight and the ballast, stuff, junk you carry - got 300lb/in on the rear!

Problem at the back of course is the propshaft - the chassis gets in the way. You need to increase clearance, but don't simply cut the chassis without putting the strenght back somewhere - the chassis is pretty crap at the rear anyway, with the roll bar acting as a cross member!

Chassis flexes a lot too - cracks at the top of the front section, down the front diagonals where the engine mounts tie in and probably places I've not yet found.

Hope you've got some underbody protection - not necessarily for the car, but having only Dutton GRP between my bum cheeks and a typical trials section didn't fill me with confidence !

Bri
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Re: Suspension lift.

Postby blackphaeton123 » Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:23 pm

thanks for the reply i will look into this. dont think it will ever be as high as a marlin tho.
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Re: Suspension lift.

Postby bricol » Sun Jul 11, 2010 1:32 am

Dunno - take a look -

http://hoits.smugmug.com/Classic-Trials ... 3789_W2ct8

There are a few Marlins either side of the yellow Dutton - compare the clearance on the same bit of track. Car has evolved a bit since - that was a few years ago.

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